30-08-2024
A great day of sailing ended at the abandoned village of Apumiat, about 20 nautical miles north of Minitsuq. The previous night, we anchored at an unnamed spot at the head of a charming little bay. When we went ashore, we discovered an old Inuit campsite perched on a steep rise overlooking the fjord and the adjacent coast. It’s easy to see why someone would choose to make their home here—caribou tracks and signs of muskoxen were everywhere. An old cairn marked the site, and as we approached, stone circles slowly came into view. The dwellings were likely sheltered from the elements by the towering rock formations surrounding them, possibly constructed from hides and whale bone, as there’s little wood in Greenland. It was quite an experience to be among such ancient ruins.
Our anchorage provided excellent protection from the elements. The forecasted wind stayed offshore, and our cove was well tucked away. When we set sail in the morning, the seas had calmed enough for a comfortable leg south. Eight hours and four gybes later, we were anchored again, with just enough time for a stroll along the shores of the abandoned village. The clouds forming over Hamburger Island were a sure sign of what was to come.
The northerly wind died out during the early hours, replaced by a southerly breeze. Drizzle and fog now dominate the scene, with a fresh dusting of snow on the hills. It’s time to move on. This afternoon will bring no relief—40 knots from the north are expected again, so we need to get moving. The inner lead should take us far enough south to complete the last stretch to Nuuk tomorrow.
All is well,
Gijs
