At 07:30 this morning, the first swell came through. Finally, the ice was going to let us go—though not without one last brush with some large floes. We had stopped the boat at 01:00; it was simply too dark. At 05:00 we got underway again.
The night had been magical. A thin line on what seemed like the horizon marked the boundary of our prison. I knew very well that there was no clear way out, no matter how strong the light grew. At 05:00 we began following the edge, and after two hours we came upon a lead heading north. I climbed the rigging and, sure enough, the dark line above the ice promised us freedom.
Back on deck, the ship began to move gently with the motion of the sea. Yes—we were out! But almost instantly I regretted thinking this. It had been utterly beautiful to pass through this “seascape.” I have seen ice in many forms, but never like this. The thrill of finding a way through the maze of large and small floes, in fog and darkness, is impossible to capture in words.




The summer before our first attempt, I read a book by someone who can capture scenes like these: Barry Lopez’s Arctic Dreams (1989). It reads at times like poetry, yet remains profoundly true. I was, and still am, blown away by it. Last year we sailed in northern Canada—a taste of the Northwest Passage—and Jeremy, one of our voyage crew, felt the same way. In the evenings he would read passages aloud, his calm voice bringing silence to the whole ship.
Below is a summary of Arctic Dreams.
Barry Lopez’s Arctic Dreams is a non-fiction work that blends natural history, anthropology, and travel writing to explore the Arctic landscape and the human relationship with it. Lopez examines the region’s unique environment and wildlife, its human history and indigenous cultures, and the often destructive impulses of explorers and outsiders. The book serves as a meditation on how the Arctic shapes human imagination and desire, and it makes a plea for a more appreciative and emotionally engaged way of understanding this remote and beautiful part of the world.
Key Aspects of the Book
- Author’s Experience:
Lopez recounts his own extensive travels and research over four years in the Arctic, detailing experiences hunting with Inuit people and accompanying scientists.
- Natural History:
The book vividly describes the Arctic’s “stunted forest,” the “mesmerizing aurora borealis,” and the “frozen seas,” bringing its unique wildlife, such as musk oxen, polar bears, and narwhals, to life through detailed observation.
- Indigenous Cultures:
Lopez explores the history and culture of the region’s indigenous peoples, noting the psychological impact of the Arctic landscape on their lives and art.
- History of Exploration:
The book contrasts the beauty and wonder of the Arctic with the often violent history of its exploration, highlighting how explorers viewed the region as an adversary to be conquered rather than a living system to be understood.
- Human Imagination:
A central theme is the connection between the Arctic landscape and human imagination and desire, particularly the problematic tendency to exploit and dominate the environment.
- Ecological Consciousness:
The book expresses sorrow for the “toxic relationship” between humanity and the natural world, including the impact of human expansion on animals and the environment.
- A Call to Reconsideration:
Lopez concludes with a powerful call for people to think more imaginatively and emotionally about the Arctic, advocating for a more sustainable and respectful relationship with the land.
Last night was our Arctic Dream!
All is well
Gijs



















Wonderful post