13-08-2025 – Sunken Island Bay
Last night we dropped anchor at the foot of the Franklin Mountains. The peaks of the Brooks Range were just visible in the far distance. There was supposed to be an island just off the coast to give us shelter from the easterly winds. The winds were light, so the absence of this island was of no concern… A shoal was there in its place. We had to feel our way into a suitable spot to let go the hook. This is the type of navigation that makes our trip so special. You can plan, but nature does not give a damn about that.
The first caribou were spotted on shore. They are from the Grant herd of the Barren Grounds. The animals seemed well-fed and, with a little breeze to keep the mosquitoes quiet, quite happy. We stayed on deck absorbing the panorama. We had agreed earlier on a movie night with the series Terror for entertainment. This had to wait. When we did start, I thought the book Erebus would be a fitting next title to highlight.
Erebus, by Michael Palin, tells the story of HMS Erebus, a British naval ship that played a significant role in 19th-century exploration. The book details two major voyages: the first to the Antarctic, led by James Clark Ross, and the second, fateful expedition to the Arctic under John Franklin, which resulted in the ship’s disappearance. Palin’s account is richly detailed, incorporating historical research, travel to key locations, and personal reflections.
The first expedition saw Erebus venturing further south than any ship had previously gone, charting much of the Antarctic coastline and conducting scientific experiments. The second, the ill-fated Franklin expedition, aimed to find the Northwest Passage but ended in tragedy, with the ship and crew vanishing without a trace. Palin delves into the historical context of these voyages, exploring the era of polar exploration, the challenges faced by the crews, and the scientific advancements made during this period.
The book also examines the lives and careers of the two key commanders: James Clark Ross, a skilled navigator and scientist, and John Franklin, whose final expedition ended in disaster. Palin interweaves his own experiences and observations, having travelled to various locations relevant to the Erebus’s journey, including Tasmania, the Falkland Islands, and the Canadian Arctic. The book is enhanced with maps, photographs, paintings, and engravings, bringing the story to life.
With Tecla, we are fortunate enough to follow in many of Erebus’s tracks all over the globe. Of course, in the coming weeks we will be very “close” to the ship’s last chapter and even pass her final resting place south of the shores of King William Island. Later in the trip, I hope to anchor in Erebus and Terror Bay, off Beechey Island. But this winter — or rather, the austral summer — we are going to see how far we can get into Erebus and Terror Gulf, on the east side of the Antarctic Peninsula.
First we will have to say our goodbyes to the sunken island with no name, reclaimed by the Arctic Ocean. We all play our part. For now, ours is to tell the story of the Northwest Passage!
All is well,
Gijs
Previous Post
