From linen to nylon and from cotton to wool, weather on the north pacific is changing

Position 38’33.3N 165’37.3W | course 340′ | speed 5,7kn

The weather has been shifting noticeably over the past 24 hours. A dampness has settled into the air. As I came up on watch this evening in my linen pants and t-shirt, I quickly realized that wouldn’t do! So, a fast change into leggings, a sweater, and my foul-weather trousers… and out we went. I suppose it won’t be long before we trade in our cotton sweaters for woollen ones.

Our speed has been between 5 and 6 knots – steady and comfortable, while the air feels heavy and the sky changes every 30 minutes. From clear, starry nights to thick cumulus and strato layers rolling in. But we are not in a rush.

The day has been good to us. This morning, our first mate Sandrine gave a talk about Polynesian navigation – how children would be trained from a young age to recognize stars, to know which one would follow another depending on the direction they were traveling. And how, instead of placing themselves at the centre, Polynesian navigators see the voyage as “coming from” and “going to.” And instead of North, East, South and West they would think in wind directions, wind directions with their own name and identity. It was wholesome to listen to – calm, grounded, wise.

As we sail away from their part of the world, we’re heading for another extraordinary region, where an entirely different style of navigation has shaped the way of life. No longer guided by the light of the lagoons, but by the glow of the ice.

In between those two worlds, we make this beautiful voyage – with shifting skies and good company.

We spotted our first albatrosses today. They kept their distance, but judging by their flight, they were likely Laysan albatrosses. We also saw a sea turtle drifting by, which caught me by surprise. And for the past days, we’ve enjoyed the squeaky company of two cheerful terns.

No sea mammals yet… but a tuna! Just before reeling in the line last night, Michael caught one. Can’t wait to see what he’ll turn it into this time. Last night’s treat was peanut butter, chocolate, and banana muffins – so whatever he prepares next, I’m sure it’ll be delicious.

Matz and Floris have been hard at work today getting the top deck sanded, getting it coated again before the cold is the plan!!