This logbook entry was written before we headed to Ilulissat, but due to work on board and bad internet connection, we are only able to post it now! The Tecla has already left Ilulissat harbor and is on her way South again! The water has started freezing over in the nights, so it is time to go South for sure!
Anchored at Godhavn, or Qeqertarssuaq, we understand why this name was once given to this harbor. Qeqertarssuaq means big Island, and Disko island really is a big island, after several stops there is still a lot we could explore. But also Godhavn, not named after a god, but literally Good haven. It is perfectly sheltered from all sides, only a little bit of swell runs into the harbor, as the waves crash on the rocks and the beach just outside. Although the wind had been strong the past two days, the anchor is holding very well, which makes for a good night’s rest.
We have left Canada and Canadian waters behind us and feel like we can call it a successful, beautiful voyage. Although our official North West Passage will only be official once we leave the Arctic circle, we have done the hard part and feel confident in the next leg. The Arctic circle ends at 66’34N, just North of Nuuk. So our next voyage, between Nuuk and Ilulissat will take us out of the Arctic circle.
Qeqertarssuaq, Godhavn, is a friendly community with lots of fishing, some hiking and outdoor activity and some researchers in the station just outside the village. The working dogs howl whenever the snow falls, like they know winter will soon be here. The pups are nearly grown and are fighting each other to see who is strongest. The grown dogs, on chain, watch them roam free.
The colored houses, all colors of the rainbow, make the village seem sunny even when the rain comes down in bucket loads and the wind is icy cold. Luckily the café has good coffee!
Just a few more days are left on this voyage, days we can use to explore the Disko Bay area. We have anchored all the way inside the Disko fjord, some of us then hiked over a peninsula to Fortune Bay, while others made their way there under engine, in between the iceberg on board the Tecla. Next day we set sail for Qeqertarssuaq, Godhavn. Just 4 miles, but against wind and waves it took us over an hours to get there! And here we are nicely sheltered, one more night at anchor and tomorrow, early we depart for an anchorage closer to Ilulissat.
(the Tecla stayed at Christianhavn before Ilulissat and then sailed through the ice to the end harbor of this North West Passage, more news about that later)
