Smallesund

11-09-2024

Smallesund is exactly what its name suggests—small! Our sunny days came to an end yesterday, but we still needed to make some progress south. There was no time to hide indoors. The Inner Lead along the coast of Greenland offers excellent protection from the seas, except perhaps at the headlands. Every now and then, we had to venture outside, exposing ourselves to the full fury of the seas. It wasn’t too bad this time, but it was still enough to slow us down.

Our intended stop yesterday was the summer village of Narsalik. However, the ice situation there was so severe that we had to continue. We encountered an old ice field that must have drifted here earlier this summer. The sea ice was packed closely by the winds and tides, and together with the icebergs, it made for some impressive sights. Narsalik is located on an island of the same name, and a sound runs through it, protected by other islands. The sound was packed with big bergs. Once we navigated through the maze, a fog descended, making our prospects for finding a safe harbor seem grim.

After carefully examining the charts, Smallesund appeared to be our best option. It’s no more than a little cove hidden away between some big rocks—some above water, others below. Some were marked on the chart, but most were not. After a long day, it seemed promising enough to lure us in. A hair-raising approach with just a little too much swell got the heart rate going. When we finally anchored, I checked the chart plotter and, to my dismay, realized we had sailed over some uncharted islands. I quickly made a note and marked a future track because, while the spot is lovely, it’s better left for a sunny day.

The world seems to spin a little faster up north. The seasons are changing quickly as darkness takes over. The Northern Lights have been out whenever the skies are clear. Another thing that’s clear is the mileage ahead—no time to linger. We have Viking sites to visit and fjords to explore!

All is well,

Gijs