Estrecho de Magallanes – 21:45 local time – 6.9 kn, course 330
Patagonia is more than what waits around the next corner, or the views we wake up to. It changes constantly — almost every hour bringing something new.
After riding out the wind on two anchors, we set off again. Some had hoped to climb the surrounding peaks during a quieter spell, but the weather never quite settled. The risk of going ashore by dinghy and not being able to return in the gusting winds and rising waves was simply too great.
So we left in the morning, though not without a slow start — our anchors had twisted, and it took time to untangle them before we could move on. Even then, the wind was already building. With mizzen and mainsail set, we pushed into a headwind that grew from 25 to 40 knots.
We were still making progress, but ahead lay a narrow passage. The closer we got, the stronger the gusts became. Wind-swept waves, driven by rain, were tearing across the water, lifting it straight out of the channel. Visibility dropped to nothing. We lowered the mizzen peak and turned around — just in time. A powerful gust shot out of the narrow, pushing us downwind at 9 knots, while the wind indicator peaked at 57 knots. That was enough.
We altered course for shelter, thinking we might wait it out. The weather here shifts quickly, but this time it only worsened. We pressed further into a less-charted area, searching for shallower ground to anchor. Even that became an adventure in itself.
We passed a stunning island — waterfalls streaming down its cliffs, one blown sideways before it could even reach the sea. Seals played along the shore, and a large condor circled high above. But the depth never came up — no less than 30 meters, far too deep in these conditions.
Our last option: a narrow spot where two waterfalls met at the shoreline — perhaps, we hoped, there might be sand or mud beneath. And there it was: 19 meters. Perfect. We dropped both anchors and settled in, hoping for some rest. The wind finally eased around 05:00.
At first light, we set off again. By now, we have reached the Strait of Magellan. The landscape unfolded around us — enchanted forest-like trees, striking rock formations, a condor near its nest, seals, and even more whales. What a day.
It’s raining now, but here that means little. In Patagonia, the next hour can bring anything. I’m still optimistic — I’ll soon take over the helm from Thor, who has been standing out in the rain for nearly an hour.
Tonight will be our first where we sail on through, until the wind stops us again — likely tomorrow. Another deep low is approaching the Chilean coast, so we’re making the most of every hour of lighter winds.
All is well on board,
Jet
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